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Every summer, Finns, Danes, Swedes and Norwegians make an annual pilgrimage to their summer cabins, often in remote, off-grid island locations.
Somewhere along the way, in the flurry of glacial fjords, flower-embroidered meadows and granite outcrops, worries are left on the mainland.
With the mercury soaring in southern Europe and traditional summer destinations like the Canaries and Greece buckling under the strain of mass tourism, the idea of an Arctic beach break is increasingly appealing.
Headlines proclaim Scandinavia to be the new Mediterranean, and on TikTok, thousands of videos are linked to hashtags like #ScandiSummer.
So this year, I swapped Tenerife for the Turku Archipelago, a magnificent cluster of 20,000 islands, shaped by the Ice Age and scattered like jewels off Finland’s south-west coast.
But does Scandi island-hopping live up to the hype?
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In a word, yes.
In place of chaos and crowds, there is solitude and silence. Instead of scorched earth and sunbed wars, verdant forests and pristine beaches.
And, if you travel like I did, in early August – the end of the Finnish summer -there can be highs of 25°C.
I spent five days exploring this spectacular part of the world, which is home to woodland saunas, breathtaking views, a buzzing food scene and Finland’s only winery.
I recommend that next year, you do, too. Here’s everything that should be on your itinerary.
The Archipelago Trail
To ‘get away from it all’ as soon as you arrive, I suggest you start your adventure with the Archipelago Trail, a 160-mile loop that weaves from Turku through thousands of islands and picture-postcard villages.
You can hike it or bike it, as you wish. A seamless mosaic of ferries and bridges allows you to explore every inch.
Most ferries are free: they’re maintained by Finferries Ltd as a lifeline for residents on the inhabited islands.
Some operate frequently, every 15 to 30 minutes, while others run just once a day.
During the summer months, especially July, expect queues. The routes intersect at Pargas and Houtskär, and link smaller islands such as Korpo, Nagu and Iniö.
However, the service to the smaller island of Utö – one of the most remote parts of the archipelago – must be booked in advance. Vessels heading west to the Åland Islands are ticketed. Check the timetable here.
I’d love to cycle the trail, but as time is limited, I swap the bike for a lift. My host, Viveca, drives to the quaint island of Nagu, one of the stops on the trail.
Covered with pine trees, green fields, and piercing blue sky, I don’t see another car for miles. Occasionally, a lone cyclist passes by.
Viveca tells me that the trail can be completed at your own pace. However, to experience the best of each island, she recommends a week to allow time for detours to smaller villages and far-flung islets beyond the trail.
The best time to visit is from May to September.
Sea paddling and surviving in the wild
One of the highlights of my trip begins at the visitor centre in Korpoström, on the island of Korpo, which runs guided sea paddling excursions in the Archipelago Sea and National Park — a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Tours start from €80 (£69) per person.
At every turn, it is clear that nature comes first here. Locals respect their land and work tirelessly to preserve its natural beauty. Korpoström also doubles as an educational destination for kindergartens and schools, where kids can learn about marine biology and the world around them.
Naawa Nature Camp, also on Korpo, is another great spot for anyone looking to retreat into the wilderness. Here, kayak and paddleboard rental costs €30 (£26) for two hours, or €60 (£52) for a whole day.
The camp’s owner, Sara, treats me to a one-to-one survival skill class, where I learn to build my own fire from scratch.
As a result of my creation, we’re able to brew coffee and cook pancakes in the heart of the woods. It’s as far from a traditional summer holiday as I can imagine, and I love every minute.
Outdoor cooking and survival skills classes cost €90 (£78) and €80 (£69), respectively.
A sauna a day
No trip to Finland is complete without experiencing sauna culture. It’s a sacred part of Finnish life, and dates back over two millennia.
The practice is inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists, and is meant to provide physical and mental rejuvenation.
While I had (briefly) tried out the electric sauna in my local gym — and rejected it due to feeling awkward sitting cheek-to-cheek with strangers — the authentic smoke and wood-fired versions are a game-changer.
Set at a ‘comfortable’ 37.5°C, never have I felt so relaxed. I’d take the ritual of sitting in the sauna, followed by a dip in the hot tub or a swim in the sea, over an Ibiza resort pool, any day.
A word of warning: Sauna etiquette is no joke.
A shower is required before and after, and always take a towel to sit on. If you’re heading to the jacuzzi afterwards, make sure your feet are clean before climbing in.
A history lesson in Seili
Stunning scenery and physical healing aside, the islands of the Turku Archipelago are steeped in history.
Seili, a small island off Nagu, is one of the most interesting places I’ve ever visited.
Cruising from Turku, past dense forest and summer cottages, we reach the island, which feels like an abandoned movie set.
Empty cabins are dotted across meadows, a wooden church sits in a clearing beside a graveyard, and a colonial-style building is perched at the top of the hill.
It’s all surrounded by calm, crystal clear waters. You can hear a pin drop.
I’m told that the colonial building was Finland’s best-known leper hospital until it closed in 1785.
Following the decline of leprosy in Finland, the hospital was repurposed as an asylum for mentally ill patients until the 1960s.
It’s now under the control of the Archipelago Research Institute and the University of Turku. Guided tours can be booked, and the old hospital building has been transformed into a free museum.
You can even spend the night there. Family-sized cottages are available from €173 (£150).
A creative and ambitious culture
On the last day of my trip, I find myself in the imagination of Tuomas and Annika, an eccentric Finnish couple, and the brains behind Paratiisi Nagu, Finland’s only winery.
The duo makes Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Riesling in a glass-roofed greenhouse — carefully crafted grape vines curling at all angles.
Tuomas tells me these are ‘living art walls’, an essential part of the venue’s design, blurring the line between nature and architecture.
After offering me one of their red wines at 10am (it would be rude not to), the couple takes me through their home-grown oasis, pointing out art exhibitions that have found a home among the vines.
It’s an incredible end to an unforgettable trip.
Finland is so many things: an adventurer’s paradise, a creative’s dream, a utopia for nature lovers. The list could go on.
I will return.
How to get to Finland and the Turku Archipelago
Fly from London Heathrow to Helsinki with Finnair. Economy fares start from £167.
From Helsinki Airport, take a train to Turku, changing once at Pasila. The journey takes around 2 hours and 30 minutes, and return tickets cost €23 (£20).
From Turku, take the archipelago Turku–Seili–Nauvo cruise with M/S Vitharun. Tickets cost €47 (£41).
Once in Nagu (Nauvo is the Finnish name), you can explore the other islands by car, foot, or bicycle. Just hop on one of the many free ferries that connect the archipelago, and you’re good to go.
Where to stay in the Turku Archipelago
The Turku Archipelago has plenty of unique places to stay.
Tackork Gård & Marina in Nagu is ideal for families, couples, and outdoor lovers.
Guests can stay in glass-roofed star cabins, a luxurious suite, or a traditional hunting lodge complete with a grain-silo sauna. Other saunas on the property include smoke, cave, and beach.
Room rates start from €259 (£225) per night for two people on a room-only basis.
With a focus on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, the on-site restaurant serves elevated Finnish cuisine. I can vouch for this: the chef’s concoction of smoked salmon, carrot purée, radish, and potato wedges was sublime.
For something more upmarket, check out Villa Wolax, a waterside complex in Kuusisto. Guests have the option of being picked up on a private speedboat by owners Milla and Tino from Nagu. The couple couldn’t do enough for me during my stay.
The main building is a beautifully restored villa, built in 1899. The property combines elegant accommodation with gourmet dining, and stylish rooms with stunning sea views.
Unwind in wood-heated beach saunas and outdoor jacuzzis or enjoy a range of seasonal activities, including sailing, SUP boarding, and cycling.
Room rates start from €290 (£252) per night for two adults, breakfast included.
Camper vans are also welcome. There is a car park in the forest above the main building. One night with an electric hookup costs €20.
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